Thursday, February 17, 2011

The Battle for Kiev (Things Get Interesting): Part 1

Alright, finally things get interesting:



I'm back in the (former) USSR. The crossing to Ukraine was a bit surreal. Pushing my bike through the thick snow I began to feel truly out of the EU. As I entered the dimly light immigration building I was greeted by a dark Soviet-Realist mural complete with all the essential symbolism: the crushing of Fascist Germany, the solidarity of the proletariat and the glory of the Red Army. The large hall was nearly empty and I wheeled my bike up to the only open immigration kiosk. Across the counter was an absolutely beautiful girl in a military uniform. Her face was momentarily cold and serious, but as she sat up straight she saw that on my side I was wheeling a fully loaded bicycle. She cracked a very friendly smile and carried out two simultaneous interrogations.

The first was centered on the business at hand of screening me to get into Ukraine. The second was an excited attempt and discovering what the hell I was doing on the bicycle in the dead of Ukrainian winter. At the point I told her that I had biked from Amsterdam, she left the little booth for several moments. I heard some excited giggling and she returned with two other female guards. I caught a small glimpse of their legs as they passed between the kiosks and saw that along with their military uniforms, they had high heels. The three women crowded in the kiosk and as the questions continued (in English) I listened to them commenting in Russian. To my great satisfaction, the word "simpatichno" (cute) was thrown around several times. I finally started answering in Russian to let them know I understood what they were saying and they seemed incredibly surprised and delighted that I could speak it (and use it to flirt a bit). The questions didn't seem all that out of the ordinary at first.

"Birthplace....Family name... Where have you traveled in the last 90 days?" etc, etc.
Then came one that still seemed fairly normal, "Are you married?'
"No," I replied.
With evident playful excitement, my dark haired interrogator leaned forward and with a smile perhaps wider than my own asked, "Do you have a girlfriend?"
"What?! Uh... no."
One the two blondes pointed to her friends and said "They have no boyfriends!"

To my delight the questions continued like this for a while culminating in ,"Will you stay in Chop (the border town) tonight?" "No." "Will you please stay in Chop tonight?" they finished jokingly. Once questioning finished, they excitedly looked over my bags. I was forced to pull out my guitar and to "prove it was mine" they made me play and sing them two songs while one took pictures on her camera phone.

Welcome to Ukraine.

I broke down my bicycle into parts and took a long over-night train to Kiev. I shared my sleeping compartment with a kind woman who worked as police officer in Uzhgorod. We shared food and I practiced Russian. My slight cough became an inter-compartmental affair as people from the next sleeper compartment heard that there was an American with a slight cold. After nearly an hour of arguing over the best method of treatment, the other passengers a series of competing lists of medicines I should by in Kiev to treat myself. My attempts at, "it is only a small cold" fell on deaf ears as they started chattering about the best doctors in Kiev.

Having only paid for one night of accommodation in 7 weeks, I decided to rent a cheap bed for several weeks and catch up on Russian language study. Thankfully Kiev is mostly Russian-speaking (though the damned signed are in Ukrainian). It is quite surprisingly, dare I say it, beautiful here.

A bridge of love locks:

Саша + Юра = Любовь (Sasha + Yura = Love)

With the Dnieper and its forested islands in the background:


I could write a lot about the charms of Kiev, but there is something else that has been bothering me here. I'll write about it later. But here is a hint.

Babi Yar; the ravine where the murders of 100,000 people by the Nazis took place (including 33,000 Jews in a single incident):

Wednesday, February 2, 2011

Catching Up: Switzerland to Slovakia


I am way behind in my posting. Currently in Eastern Slovakia.

On the road to the High Tatras:


Here is a quick summary of the last leg journey (Basel, Switzerland to Poprad, Slovakia):

Part 1: Cheese and Chocolate
After a great time couchsurfing in Basel with some very kind hosts (pictured below in their garden) I cycled a wet day over the hills to Zurich. Unfortunately it was a couple degrees above freezing so I had heavy rain instead of snow. I finally gave up on try to stay dry and just kept pedaling fast enough to keep my internal furnace burning. When I finally arrived at my friend's flat in Zurich, I stayed in the area for almost 2 weeks. During this time I consumed more chocolate and dairy products than I would have thought humanly possible. Much music was played with friends in Zurich and Winterthur. I think I spent the entire two weeks in Switzerland smiling.



Part 2: Cheating and Saunas
Having spent so much time in Zurich, I ended up getting a really cheap night train ticket across Austria. Passed a few days in Vienna with a friend from UCSB and made the snowy route to Bratislava, Slovakia. I had never intended on coming to Slovakia but I ended up really loving it. Couchsurfed with two really incredible brothers (Peter and Brano) and ended up in a sauna on both my second and third nights in Slovakia.

Part 3: When alone in the woods with a gypsy...
Brano suggested that I check out a Roma (often called gypsy) camp 30 km North of Bratislava. That was one of the stranger experiences of my trip. Though in the region for hundreds of years, the Roma have, for the most part, successfully resisted integration. Many now live in separate slums outside of towns and cities throughout Eastern Europe and the Balkans. In Slovakia, unemployment among the Roma stands around 80%.

They first came up in conversation in the Sauna. When one Slovak mentioned their India roots I was a bit surprised. After a couple days of reading, I came to learn that they had migrated out of South Asia (hence their facial features), most likely as a low (perhaps untouchable) caste in the Hindu hierarchy. Though they tended to adopt the religion of the region in which they moved (Islam in Turkey and Bosnia or Christianity in Slovakia or Romania for example) they did little else to assimilate.

I don't have time to provide a full history of the Roma or talk fully about my limited experience in the slum, but I have to say that the tension between the Roma and Slovaks was visible and the conditions in the slum were a bit shocking to see in Europe. After leaving the camp, I was followed by a friendly (a bit too friendly) Roma and, well... if you see me in person, feel free to ask about what happened. The only advice i can give is, "When alone in the woods with a gypsy, bring equal parts caution and sense of humor."

Part 4: The Tatras
Took a train across western Slovakia and biked to the Tatras mountains. Currently couchsurfing with a kind Slovak girl who took me skiing yesterday and is letting me rest today. My route has now drastically changed. Looks like I'll be in Ukraine soon. Think I'll rent a room there for a week or two (so far I have only paided for one night of accommodation since I started my trip Dec 13th) so I can have some alone time and catch up on the work I doing for the University. I will also finally have a chance to get some Russian language immersion. Afterwords, I will continue on to Georgia somehow...

Tatras: